Not the end of the world: Accepting imperfections in a Hampton Jean Jacket

Ever since this perfectionist was in a much smaller body, these words from loved ones and teachers have echoed in her head.  When she didn’t get that straight A report card or when all the cookies on the baking sheet melted into one.

It’s not the end of the world. 

As an adult I still have trouble seeing past perceived failures, and now dealing with imperfection in my sewing practice I try hard to remind myself.  It’s not the end of the world.  Usually If I hang in there I find that some mistakes can be corrected and others can be overlooked.  One day they may even be  embraced...I’m still working on that part! One of the most recent challenges was the making of my Alina Design Co. Hampton Jean Jacket

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Part 1

The biggest obstacle came about before I even started sewing. I started off with two precious yards of 12 oz Cone Mills denim in Indigo from Blackbird but I had a lighter medium blue jacket in mind. I did some swatch testing in a bleach bath, but not enough as I would soon find out. To say the bleaching process did not go as planned is an understatement. Once wet, that cut of very heavy denim became extremely heavy and it was really hard to stir and agitate it adequately. I also did not account for continued lightening when I washed the bleach out. What I pulled out of the dryer was not only a much lighter blue that I wanted, but looked to me like a blotchy acid washed mess. Devastated, I folded it up, put it away and sulked in defeat. The next day I went online and found to my surprise that a lot of the jackets I saw were made with denim very similar to the hot mess I had at home. That night with my forces revived and inspiration photos at hand, I laid out the denim and strategically cut out my pattern pieces- avoiding the worst areas. The construction part of the jacket was surprisingly simple, with the most challenging parts a result of the very heavy denim I was using along with jeans topstitching thread. More on that later.

Part 2

Overcoming my initial failure, I now had a really beautiful jacket to show for all my hard work. I had (mostly) embraced the color and imperfect bleach job and I had a lot of positive feedback from the community. My jacket fit well and was made with quality materials. It just looked too...new. The thick fabric was still stiff and all the pressing had left it very crisp. The bleached and distressed denim was begging to be rumpled and softened with wear. To expedite that process, I tossed it in with my next load of laundry. From the dryer I pulled out a much softer crumplier jacket that looked pretty great from the outside. On closer inspection, I found that many of the flat felled seams whose topstitching I had agonized so carefully over, were not secured after all. While the topstitching was in tact, it had not caught all of those 1/4” allowances tucked under. I felt a wave of failure and disappointment come over me all over again. I was so upset that I couldn’t bear to deal with it. I stashed it in the closest, where my failure could stay hidden away. This dirty little secret was safe, but each time I opened my closet I was reminded. More than a week later, I pulled it out and forced myself to have a closer look. I debated attempting the affected seams again but didn’t have it in me. Anyway I was sure that those frayed edges would be way to tricky to work with. For now, most of the frayed edges have been tucked back into place and secured with ***gasp*** fabric glue. I know. There’s a twinge of physical pain in my chest even typing that out. I have no idea how long this fix will last, especially after washing. But I honestly don’t think it will compromise the integrity of the jacket, at least not for a long time. Hopefully by the time it’s cool enough around here to wear it, I will have gotten over most of my trauma.

Now for the review!

Pattern and Fabric: mentioned above. This is a pdf only pattern, and I had the luxury of getting the copyshop version printed by Patternsy. This company is run by a very sweet couple that clearly loves what they do and gives great service. I especially love the sturdy tissue they print on and the black ink for printing. Seriously, who can see the pale stuff a lot of companies print with? My jeans buttons are the antique brass ones from Threadbare Fabrics and they are top notch. I used the classic yellow jeans topstitching thread from Gutermann.

Size: I made the size 6 based on my bust measurement. I’m actually 35 1/2 so technically I sized down. I ignored the waist measurements which would have put me between an 8 and a 10.

Fit: I really love the fit, it’s exactly what I want in a classic denim jacket. I think the armscye is drafted especially well. It sits very close you your armpit, allowing for great range of motion.

Changes: I made only one change to the pattern, which was shortening at the waist line by one inch. I am very short wasted, and I think this adjustment makes the jacket look on my frame the way it was designed. It does not come across as particularly cropped.

Verdict: I would hate for my personal drama to dissuade you from trying this pattern, because it truly is fantastic. Alina has included all of the classic details and the cut and proportions are perfect. Honestly, it looks so legit, no one would ever tell it apart from a classic rtw jacket. The instructions are excellent and there’s even a sewalong to hold your hand through the process. As noted before, the construction of the jacket itself is not hard at all. Really, it isn’t as long as you take note and learn from my mistakes!

To consider if you’re planning this project: 12 oz denim might be too thick. If I were to make this over again in the same fabric I would mock flat fell all of the seams. My theory is that the thickness of the denim threw off my folds by a millimeter or two, so that my topstitching juuust missed its mark. I would also use a thinner fabric to make the pocket lining. There’s just no need for all that bulk. Another a challenge with super thick denim is the topstitching. I found that even when my stitches were nice and even on top, the bobbin thread was a mess. I had to really bump up my tension to correct this. Lastly, the buttonhole conundrum. I was hell-bent on making my buttonholes with topstitching thread. My first two buttonholes on the breast pockets (keyhole style to boot!) turned out fantastic, and that gave me a false sense of confidence. What I didn’t realize at the time was that the ones on the button band, especially the lower few, would be going through an extra layer of fabric. I had an extremely difficult time here, and at least one of them had to be done 7 different times. My hands were cramped and fingers were pricked and raw when I decided I had done the best that I could. To add insult to injury, the thickness of the fabric actually makes them nearly too small to actually fit buttons through. I doubt I’ll ever want to wear this jacket closed up, but it will be a struggle if I do. Moral of the story? Use the 10oz denim or twill recommend and you can avoid a lot of unnecessary pain.

All stressful details behind us, here are some gratuitous photos I took against my neighbors’ wall. Feel free to comment with your perfectionist horror stories!

xo April

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Miniseries: Winter Coat 2018

I thought it might be fun to chronicle the making of this year’s coat in something more interesting than a finished garment post, but not so involved as a sewalong. Cue the miniseries! Miniseries are my favorite to watch as they allow for more depth of content than a film without the commitment required to watch a full length series. To be perfectly honest I’m making this up as I go along, but I’m envisioning a four-parter, presented to you in (relative) real-time:

Post #1 Planning and gathering supplies

Post #2 Choosing a size and muslining

Post #3 Progress and challenges with construction photos

Post #4 Final Reveal with outfit photos

Fancy following along with me? Let’s go!

Inspiration

Last year I made my first two outerwear pieces ever in preparation for some Fall travel: a boyfriend style wool Bamboo coat for Amsterdam and an all-weather Kelly Anorak for Iceland.

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My inspiration for the wool coast was in a rich dark rust, but I sadly could not find anything like it in my price range.

 image c/o New Darlings

image c/o New Darlings

For that project I settled on a light camel on clearance from fabric.com and while it worked out well, that inspo pic haunted me.

Later that winter the obsession to find the perfect colored wool intensified when I saw this beauty on Pinterest in a very dark toasted caramel. I just love this look!

 photo c/o Fashion Jackson

photo c/o Fashion Jackson

Fabric

I’ve been periodically scanning online fabric sites ever since hoping to find an off-season steal but found nothing too tempting. Last month, completely fed up with summer I scoured fabric.com and without much expectation ordered a few samples. The winner for me was a medium weight Riley Blake Melton Wool (90% Wool, 10% Nylon blend) in the color brown. The color in person is much lighter and a lot closer to the inspo pic. I thought the price was pretty good at around $25/yard and a 20% off sale was going, so I ordered 3.5 yards

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Pattern

It felt so good to finally have my fabric, but the question of what pattern to use was unresolved. I had the Grainline Yates printed by Patternsy and ready to go, but the posiblity of a more tailored silhouette kept nagging at me. The boxy oversized look is everywhere and I do love it, but it isn’t really what I wanted for this coat. I did a lot of hunting and I finally settled on Butterick 6385, specifically the funnel neck version. It’s a completely different collar design & it doesn’t have all of the elements I wanted, but I think that in the end the fit and silhouette are most important. As a bonus, the lovely Fiona has a very comprehensive blog post on her B6385 and if I look half as cute as she does in her, I’ll consider this a success! I’m also scheming moving those welt pockets up along the princess seam and adding a jetted pocket with flap. Let’s see how brave I’m feeling…

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Supplies

The wool is slightly lighter weight than I wanted, so I picked up some brown 100% cotton flannel from JoAnn as an underlining. Also from JoAnn is the ambiance bembeg lining I chose, in the color medieval blue. In my opinion this is the best & only lining to use. Here’s a shot of my fabrics together. The colors are extremely tricky to capture on camera, but here’s the best I could do with a little editing. Also pictured are the first shoulder pads I’ve ever purchased in my life. I wonder if wearing them will make me feel as great as the model seems to…

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Still to decide on are buttons and interfacing. With regards to the interfacing I think I’ll have to test and see what works best. The buttons may end up being covered, or I might go with one of these two I saw the other day.

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Next up I’ll be prewashing my flannel and lining as well as “steaming” my wool in the dryer. While that’s happening I’ll have a look at the finished measurements of the pattern to decide what size to make and whether I need to make a quick muslin.

Feel free to let me know what you think and if you’ve got any tricks under your me-made sleeves. And stay tuned for part two!

xo April

Act like a lady: Sew Over it Kate Pattern Review

When I first became aware that indie designers used regular people to test their patterns I couldn’t wait to get involved- I just had no idea how.  I was also insecure and unsure that my skill level would qualify me.  Luckily, before too long Sew Over It made an open call for testers on Instagram and I responded with interest before I had time to chicken out.  I was so happy to be selected and always get excited when a new testing opportunity comes up.  This time around I had the  pleasure of testing a couple of patterns from the new Sew Over It Work to Weekend eBook by Lisa Comfort.

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I can never resist a shirt dress and as I had a dress in my sewing plans at the moment, I happily swapped it for Kate. She wooed me with her timeless vintage holiday vibe and the finished garment definitely did not disappoint.

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Pattern:  Kate is a classic shirt dress with a proper collar & stand, hidden button placket and cuffed sleeves that hit above the elbow.  Since the buttons end at the waist, there’s a concealed side zip under the arm to help you get in and out.  The skirt is made up of six panels and you have the option to leave 2 slits open at each side for a flirty detail.  As a bonus the pattern includes instructions to make both the top and the skirt as separate pieces- super versatile!

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Fabric: I made my Kate up in an absolutely delicious viscose linen from Sew Over It that I had in my stash.  The pattern called for 3.5 meters for my size but I was able to squeeze it out of the 2.5 I had on hand without too much trouble.  Kate is fabric hungry mostly due to the 6 panels that make up the skirt as well as her midi length.

Size:  I made my Kate in a size 10 which is my usual size for Sew Over It patterns that aren’t fitted around the hips.

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Fit:  I love the way this dress fits and I did not make any adjustments.  I am quite short waisted though, so next time around I’ll definitely take off about 5/8 inch from the bodice length.  If you look closely you can see that my belt is at my natural waist, but the seam line is quite a bit lower. 

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Changes:  At first I was skeptical about the midi length and my instinct was to shorten the pattern pieces before cutting.  In the end, mostly out of respect for Lisa’s design I decided not to.  I’m so glad that I trusted her choice.  I did find that on me the slits came up quite high, and I lowered them about 4 inches for modestly.  Other than that, this version is was made up exactly as the pattern is written. 

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Verdict:  This is one of those garments that makes me feel 100% myself when I pull it on.  I’m not particularly girly in my style and I love how the design softens the structure of a menswear-inspired top with drapey fabric and a breezy, feminine skirt.  Made up with this subtle geometric print in a natural palate it’s that easy, classic, understated piece I’ll be reaching for again and again. 

Sewing up Kate was not at all complicated.  If you’ve made a collared shirt in stable cotton, that experience will help as you work with a slippery rayon or crepe.  New techniques I learned were the hidden button placket and concealed under arm zip, both which were surprisingly straightforward.  Also if you’re in a time crunch, be aware that the hem and slits are all finished with hand sewing.  This results in a lovely soft, flowy hemline, but does take time.  I finished mine on the sofa during two evenings of Netflix.

I can’t recommend this pattern enough and I’m already scheming a set of matching separates for my next go ‘round.

xo April

Sewing magazines demystified: LMV Bernie

Don't you just love a good sewing mission?  A recent quest led me into the world of sewing magazines.  Because I had heard the lore of Burda Style - the horrors of tracing overlapped pattern pieces and adding seam allowance - I was duly apprehensive.  Images of multi-colored subway map snakes kept me at a distance.  At the same time, I found that in one issue of La Maison Victor I'd get exactly the pattern I was searching for, plus eight other patterns for about the price of one.  That included a men’s shirt just like Mr. Old Bones had been asking for.  I really didn’t know what I was getting into but I'm not one to shy away from a challenge or a bargain.  I decided to press on and hope for the best.

My experience sewing up the Bruna blouse went so well that i immediately made myself another one.  A couple more selfish sews later I decided to spread the LMV love and set out to find fabric for some selfless man-sewing.  

Pattern: Bernie shirt; La Maison Victor English edition issue 2, 2018

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 I really want to re-create this shot but we don't have a kid or graffiti that is art :/

I really want to re-create this shot but we don't have a kid or graffiti that is art :/

Fabric: Bolt- snowdrop 100% cotton from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.  I bought 2 yards (44 inches wide) and had just a bit left over.

Size: Large, the suggested size based in his chest measurement 

Fit: The fit across the back and shoulders was spot on with no changes.  The fit around the middle turned out to be too roomy for my ‘client’s’ taste so I pinched out the excess fabric at the side seams under the arms down to the waist and graded back out at the hem.  The end result looks great, although I suspect a more appropriate alteration for menswear would be to take the volume out of the center back (?)  Comment on that if you know!

 I traced the adjustment to the side seams on to my pattern pieces as best as I could.  I’ll try to figure out how to true that intersection with the armscye later...

I traced the adjustment to the side seams on to my pattern pieces as best as I could.  I’ll try to figure out how to true that intersection with the armscye later...

Changes: I made up the shirt as per the instructions, except for the yoke which I attached with the burrito method.  I forget to add hem allowance to the front placket so I had to shorten the overall length by about 2 centimeters.  This actually looks great, especially if worn untucked.   The instructions don’t call for any clean seam finishing so I split the difference and serged & faux flat-felled them.  I think I’ll go the extra mile next time now that the fit is sorted.

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Verdict: I am very impressed with this pattern and I feel like with the 2 shirts I’ve made I’ve gotten more than my money’s worth.  Bernie is definitely cut with a young, stylish guy in mind, but not fitted to the extreme.  We especially love the very narrow collar stand, and the shape and size of the collar is perfect for a modern casual look.  Tracing the pattern from the magazine was totally foreign to me and the first time I was a little confused.  If I’m honest that was mostly due to me not reading all of the instructions before getting started.  It really isn’t that complicated and there’s usually only 2 patterns to a sheet.  There’s even a breakdown of how much seam allowance to add to each pattern piece.  If you're scared of tracing off patterns from a magazine I'd say this is a good place to start.  Relax and take it slow and you will get through it. 

 2 Patterns to a page - not too much overlapping.  

2 Patterns to a page - not too much overlapping.  

 Size chart and helpful measuring guide! I would not have guessed that’s where you measure a man’s waist.

Size chart and helpful measuring guide! I would not have guessed that’s where you measure a man’s waist.

 Four pages of illustrated instructions 

Four pages of illustrated instructions 

 Pattern outlines are color coded. Here the Bernie shirt is outlined in pink and the color coded diagram shows the location and orientation of each pattern piece. Bernie is continued on page 2

Pattern outlines are color coded. Here the Bernie shirt is outlined in pink and the color coded diagram shows the location and orientation of each pattern piece. Bernie is continued on page 2

Notes on sewing for men:  Men may try and lead us to believe they are indifferent and not at all particular about their clothing.  In my experience nothing is further from the truth.  They are actually very particular - just not about the things you’d expect.  If you decide to sew for a man, ask a lot of questions and insist on answers- even if they try to blow you off.  Do not by any means forgo frequent fittings, and by all means: baste before you flat-fell.  Fit, feel of the fabric, button placement and pocket size/placement were all major considerations for my Mr.

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Serged and faux flat-felled seams.

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I managed to get the fabric way off grain when cutting the back shirt panel on the fold.  Please, look away.

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Petite collar and stand measure just under 5cm and 2cm respectively,

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The man went for understated matte white buttons.

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Double row of stitching on the back yoke is a nice detail.

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 Tiny and interestingly shaped collar stand.

Tiny and interestingly shaped collar stand.

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Hippie vibes and acceptance: Hey June Phoenix

Standing out can be great when it's your choice to do so.  But what do you do when you'd rather blend in?  I have some experience in not fitting in and generally feel comfortable in my own (figurative) skin.  Funny enough, one difference I haven't always embraced is my complexion.  See, I'm from sunny Orange County, California and was born into a beachy kind of family.  My dad is a sun-worshiping surfer.  My mom, an olive-toned former islander hippie.  I remember my blonde + bronzed older sisters perpetually glistening with tanning oil.  It was our tradition to spend vacations on the sand, and I felt that was part of my identity.  I loved this image and thought covering up or sitting under an umbrella were very uncool.  My conforming mind somehow thought I could train my skin to love the sun, and I was in complete denial about how I should care for it.  Many years, sun beds and painful burns later I began to come to terms with the fact that I will never be tan.  And that it was actually okay to be pale.  Figuring out a way to be in the sun without getting burned has been a little tricky and to this day I haven't gotten used to how much planning it takes.  Yet again, sewing has come to the rescue for me and at long last I have the cover-up of dreams.

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Pattern:  Hey June Handmade Phoenix Blouse

Fabric: Island Breeze Gauze in Olive from Fabric.com  This is not a very high quality fabric, but I tend to view my handmades as precious and I think I'll wear this more freely since it didn't cost a fortune to make.

Size: 6 based on bust measurements

Fit: I need your help on this!  I have very little experience wearing loose/blousy clothes.  My first instinct was to take in the bodice and under the arms, but I decided to leave it be.  What do you think?  Is it hanging properly, or should I have sized down?

Changes:  As soon as I saw this pattern, I could see it as a dress.  For this hack, I extended the full-length version by about 4 inches, widening the hem about 1 inch on the sides of each pattern piece (for a total of 4 inches around).  The tier/frill on the bottom is two long rectangles stitched together at both short ends.  Rough measurements: 8 inches wide x hem circumference + 50% for gathering.  The rest of the dress was sewn up exactly as instructed for the blouse.

Verdict:  There's a reason why Adriana has a reputation for great patterns with detailed instructions and my first experience was great.  She puts out a quality product at an incredibly reasonable price.  The trickiest part for me was sewing the front yoke with split neckline and only one of my corners is sharp and smooth.  This is mostly because I am very lazy when it comes to transferring pattern markings.  Next time I will use tailors tacks to achieve nice sharp corners.  I'm not tripping too hard on that though, because I am so happy with the end result.  I'm really starting to embrace this laid back hippie vibe and look forward to wearing my Phoenix on many sunburn-free summer days to come.

 The back yoke detail is my favorite.

The back yoke detail is my favorite.

 Perfect for a casual stroll in some seaside town...or down your neighbor's alley

Perfect for a casual stroll in some seaside town...or down your neighbor's alley

 The subtle bell sleeve is a statement but still practical.

The subtle bell sleeve is a statement but still practical.

 I remembered to use two rows of gathering stiches for my tiered skirt!

I remembered to use two rows of gathering stiches for my tiered skirt!

 Channeling my inner folk-rock songstress.

Channeling my inner folk-rock songstress.

 Oh, hi!

Oh, hi!

 I prefer my ties done up, and it gives me a little extra coverage on the chest.

I prefer my ties done up, and it gives me a little extra coverage on the chest.

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It's cute open too.

Crowdsourced V9251: an Anthro-inspired wrap hack

This project has been a long time coming so I'm excited that it's the first proper pattern review I'm sharing here.  It started when I picked up a few yards of floral (gasp!) rayon last December at Michael Levine with a summery dress in mind.  I'm so fickle when it comes to prints that I usually fall in and out of love with them before I even reach the checkout.  But this one seemed different and it fit in the budget, so it came home with me.  Fast forward to the end of March just before it was announced that the #sewtogetherforthesummer theme would be wrap dresses.  I came across this one in an Anthropologie ad and I immediately thought of that floral rayon I had. 

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Spurred along by my ever-resourceful Instagram pals, I suddenly had several pattern options that could help bring this inspo photo to life.  I went with Vogue 9251 after seeing it's versatility in versions from Jessie and Bryanna.  There were quite a few changes it needed in order to match my inspiration and seeing their hacks was really reassuring.

Pattern: Very Easy Vogue V9251.  I've only ever made a couple of Big 4 patterns, but I'm guessing this one was categorized 'very easy' because there are very few pattern pieces.  In my opinion that's a bit deceiving.  Especially since it's recommended to be made up in rayon, the instructions are sparse- almost cryptic and some of the methods a little tricky.  There's also no reminder or indication of when to finish seam allowances.  I think the indie pattern-maker favorite skill level "adventurous beginner" is much more accurate.  That said, I found the pattern to be very well drafted and final product matched the illustrations beautifully. 

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Fabric: Paradis Woodland Art Gallery Rayon from Michael Levine (out of stock there, but still online in other shops)  This fabric is sooo dreamy and buttery, assuming you dream of butter *or like me a really good plant based alternative*.  This is a bold, saturated print but to me the design and color pallete are sophisticated and refined.

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Size: I made the size 12 based on the finished bust measurements.  I could have graded down slightly at the waist but figured I'd just cinch it in with the ties.  A quick look at the cut of the skirt indicated it was generous enough to graze my hips freely so a straight 12 it was!

Fit: I'm very happy with the fit and fortunately the adjustments I made worked out great.  The waist does not tighten as snugly as I hoped, but I'm okay with it.  I really love the way the bodice hangs delicately with the perfect amount of ease.  The curve of the wrap skirt is something I was concerned about for modesty, but actually it has great coverage.  I can't say as much for the top but that might just be me (not a fan of cleavage).  Fortunately a safety pin is enough to keep the girl's out of sight.  I'll put a snap on soon to avoid snagging the fabric.

Changes: So many!  Starting from the top I raised the back neckline 1/2" which I think is more flattering on me.  The plan was to omit the sleeves so to keep it from being too restrictive I deepend the armscyes by 3/4", then finished them with bias binding.  There are options for two skirt lengths but since I wanted mine knee length I was on my own in adjusting it.  I know you're technically supposed to us the lenghten/shorten lines for this kind of change, but the placement of these made no sense to me.  Had I done as instructed I would have ended up with a waaay more voluminous skirt than I wanted (half circle skirt status).  I went rogue here, managing to preserve the curve of the of the front hem without adding on anything to the width.  I think I ended up shortening the midi version by about 11 inches.  I did not make a muslin, but I did carefully consider the impact of each change and made them to the pattern pieces before I cut into my fabric.  Holding the pieces up to myself and my dress form helped me feel confident I was on the right path.

The Frill:  As the main feature in replicating the look of the Anthropologie dress, this beast gets it's own section.  Truth: I own nothing with frills and invariably replace gathers with pleats in all skirts so the extent of my experience up to this point was gathering sleeves for insertion. I'm sure there are better ways to have done this, but this method got the job done.  I sewed together 4 inch wide strips of fabric totaling the required length plus roughly 50% extra for gathering.  I folded the one *very long* strip in half, stitching each end closed and sewed gathering stitches.  Gathering 195 inches of fabric was a way bigger undertaking than I imagined, especially since I thought I could do it with only one row of gathering stitches- a total ruffle rookie mistake.  If you attempt this, please save yourself some grief and use two or even three rows to keep everything in place.  Once the gathered frill was pinned on I attached it beginning at the outer waist tie, all around the hem and back up to the inner waist tie.  All three layers of the seam allowance were serged together and pressed toward the skirt.

 inside the frill

inside the frill

 

Construction: The construction was pretty straightforward, but the wording in the instructions and minimal illustrations left me overthinking what was to be done.  In the end I did what made the most sense to me, which may or may not be correct.  I think the look of self bias binding is so much more refined than pre-made, so I made it in the continuous loop method with this tutorial from Itch to Stitch.  For reference I used a 12" square and cut 1 inch strips and I had enough to bind the armscyes and all around the wrap and back neckline of the bodice with about 12 inches left over.  Making bias tape with such delicate fabric is a real pain and mine is far from perfect.  The same is true of my application of it.  I regret not making my strips 1.25" instead of 1" because I think those extra millimeters added to the folds would have made the binding sturdier.  Added to the fact that I'm super rusty at bias binding in general, I'm not certain it'll hold up in the washing machine so I'll probably stick to hand washing.  One thing that did help in making the bias tape was *heavily* spray starching the fabric square before cutting and again when putting it through the bias maker.  On that note, my top tip for working with shifty rayon in general is to handle it minimally.  The cut fabric loses it's shape very easily, so never stretch or pull on it in the slightest and to never let your cut fabric hang off the edge of your work surface or even from your hand until you've got it all stitched together.  

 self bias tape

self bias tape

 guts!  

guts!  

 the inner wrap

the inner wrap

 the outer wrap

the outer wrap

 front wrap

front wrap

Verdict: It's floaty and romantic and swishy and breezy.  Definitely not a look I'm known for, but I'm really pleased with it.  It had been ages since I made anything other than a simple skirt with rayon, and I had forgotten how hard it is to wrangle.  And with so many changes and fiddly finishings it took me ages to complete but it was all worth it in the end.  Stay tuned, I will be making a short sleeved version of this pattern soon sans frill very soon!

 

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 very roomy pockets

very roomy pockets

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