Miniseries: Winter Coat 2018

I thought it might be fun to chronicle the making of this year’s coat in something more interesting than a finished garment post, but not so involved as a sewalong. Cue the miniseries! Miniseries are my favorite to watch as they allow for more depth of content than a film without the commitment required to watch a full length series. To be perfectly honest I’m making this up as I go along, but I’m envisioning a four-parter, presented to you in (relative) real-time:

Post #1 Planning and gathering supplies

Post #2 Choosing a size and muslining

Post #3 Progress and challenges with construction photos

Post #4 Final Reveal with outfit photos

Fancy following along with me? Let’s go!

Inspiration

Last year I made my first two outerwear pieces ever in preparation for some Fall travel: a boyfriend style wool Bamboo coat for Amsterdam and an all-weather Kelly Anorak for Iceland.

2017-11-23 02-41-11.jpeg
2017-11-18 01-48-31.jpeg

My inspiration for the wool coast was in a rich dark rust, but I sadly could not find anything like it in my price range.

 image c/o New Darlings

image c/o New Darlings

For that project I settled on a light camel on clearance from fabric.com and while it worked out well, that inspo pic haunted me.

Later that winter the obsession to find the perfect colored wool intensified when I saw this beauty on Pinterest in a very dark toasted caramel. I just love this look!

 photo c/o Fashion Jackson

photo c/o Fashion Jackson

Fabric

I’ve been periodically scanning online fabric sites ever since hoping to find an off-season steal but found nothing too tempting. Last month, completely fed up with summer I scoured fabric.com and without much expectation ordered a few samples. The winner for me was a medium weight Riley Blake Melton Wool (90% Wool, 10% Nylon blend) in the color brown. The color in person is much lighter and a lot closer to the inspo pic. I thought the price was pretty good at around $25/yard and a 20% off sale was going, so I ordered 3.5 yards

2018-09-12 15-34-37.jpeg

Pattern

It felt so good to finally have my fabric, but the question of what pattern to use was unresolved. I had the Grainline Yates printed by Patternsy and ready to go, but the posiblity of a more tailored silhouette kept nagging at me. The boxy oversized look is everywhere and I do love it, but it isn’t really what I wanted for this coat. I did a lot of hunting and I finally settled on Butterick 6385, specifically the funnel neck version. It’s a completely different collar design & it doesn’t have all of the elements I wanted, but I think that in the end the fit and silhouette are most important. As a bonus, the lovely Fiona has a very comprehensive blog post on her B6385 and if I look half as cute as she does in her, I’ll consider this a success! I’m also scheming moving those welt pockets up along the princess seam and adding a jetted pocket with flap. Let’s see how brave I’m feeling…

B6385_02.jpg

Supplies

The wool is slightly lighter weight than I wanted, so I picked up some brown 100% cotton flannel from JoAnn as an underlining. Also from JoAnn is the ambiance bembeg lining I chose, in the color medieval blue. In my opinion this is the best & only lining to use. Here’s a shot of my fabrics together. The colors are extremely tricky to capture on camera, but here’s the best I could do with a little editing. Also pictured are the first shoulder pads I’ve ever purchased in my life. I wonder if wearing them will make me feel as great as the model seems to…

2018-09-12 15-23-06.jpeg

Still to decide on are buttons and interfacing. With regards to the interfacing I think I’ll have to test and see what works best. The buttons may end up being covered, or I might go with one of these two I saw the other day.

2018-09-17 15-37-04 (2).jpeg
2018-09-17 15-36-55.jpeg

Next up I’ll be prewashing my flannel and lining as well as “steaming” my wool in the dryer. While that’s happening I’ll have a look at the finished measurements of the pattern to decide what size to make and whether I need to make a quick muslin.

Feel free to let me know what you think and if you’ve got any tricks under your me-made sleeves. And stay tuned for part two!

xo April