Winter Coat Miniseries Part 2: Assessing the muslin fit

As promised, I’m back today with some photos and thoughts about the muslin for my B6385. After having a look at the finished bust, waist and hip measurements I decided to start with a size 10 up top and grade out to a 12 at the hip. This pattern also very helpfully includes cup sizing, and the difference between my bust & high bust put me in the C range. (For reference my measurements are 35 1/2 bust, 34 high bust, 28 waist, 39 1/2 hip) I realize I took a bit of a risk here going with a smaller amount of ease but I really don’t want this tailored coat to come up big.

My test fabric is a stiff mid-heavy weight cotton-like fabric that was passed on to me. It’s not something I’d use as a main fabric so I was happy to have it on hand for this project. I don’t know if it’s just me but I feel like I’m dressed for a stage production of Oliver Twist. I’m finding that a bit distracting, so I hope the black & white filter will help us focus! It also disguises the sweaty fluster of wearing a coat in 90 degree weather.

Fist Impressions

Off the bat, I think the front looks pretty good. I’m not hugely critical of a coat’s fit so I may be oversimplifying here, but I think this is fine. I think the cup sizing gives some nice shaping without being too fitted. It’s a bit longer than I expected, and I’m pretty average at 5’5”. I may shorten it a bit, I’ll just lop it off the end - no pattern adjustment necessary. The bigger problems start when I turn around.

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Clearly there is an unacceptable amount of pooling at the lower back. I presume this is a result of extra room around the waist up against a snug fit around the bum (more on that later). On the positive, the upper back looks pretty good to me.

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The side view is okay with me as well. The sleeves are not hemmed, just tucked under, but the length seems good.

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Here’s the part I’m a bit stumped at. Mobility. I am very squirmy/twitchy and I don’t like to feel restricted. So, how much mobility should I expect to have in a coat like this? I think I have plenty of room around the upper circumference of the chest/back so the issue must be in the arms. The armscye seems to be fitted right and the sleeves don’t feel tight when they’re at my sides, but when I move around they do.

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It feels tightest right about here. Would this be considered a full bicep adjustment or do I have broad shoulders? The affected area seems to be in between the two regions. Or should I not expect to have this much range of motion? This fabric is pretty stiff and I know my wool will give a lot more… Plus I think the sleeves look pretty good, I don’t want them to look disproportionately bigger… What should I do???

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Adjustments

First thing I did was let the two back side seams out, grading down to a scant 1/4” starting at the high hip.  I knew it wouldn’t hurt to have some extra room around the bum and I think that resolved most of the pooling at the lower back.  After that I fiddled around with taking in those same seams at the waist and above, but it really didn’t help smooth it out and I don’t want a tight overfitted coat.  At that point I put the whole thing aside.  I had settled on hoping that the combination of my wool plus flannel underling would disguise the current rippling well enough.  But a couple hours later I had an epiphany!

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I am very short waisted!  Maybe the extra fabric is a lengthwise issue, not a widthwise one.  Since there is no waist seem it didn’t hit me at first but, duh! - there’s no reason I can’t shorten it there anyway.   I had already moved on to making dinner by this point, so I quickly pinned in about 1/2” at the center back horizontally and tapered it out to the side seams to snap a quick photo.  I think that just may be the ticket!

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At this point, I’m planning to keep the size 10 at the top but now grade out to a 14 at the hip.  I’m also going to shorten the length about 1/2” at the waistline across all pattern pieces.  In the meantime, if anyone has thoughts about my arm mobility issue, I’d love to hear your feedback.  I should probably read about both fit adjustments to educate myself but honestly I’d rather get the abridged version from you all.

Thanks for following along!  It may be a while until the next installment of the series is ready.  I’m about to embark on the treacherous adventure of lace wedding dress sewing, so we’ll see how much selfish sewing I squeeze in the next couple of months!

xo April

Miniseries: Winter Coat 2018

I thought it might be fun to chronicle the making of this year’s coat in something more interesting than a finished garment post, but not so involved as a sewalong. Cue the miniseries! Miniseries are my favorite to watch as they allow for more depth of content than a film without the commitment required to watch a full length series. To be perfectly honest I’m making this up as I go along, but I’m envisioning a four-parter, presented to you in (relative) real-time:

Post #1 Planning and gathering supplies

Post #2 Choosing a size and muslining

Post #3 Progress and challenges with construction photos

Post #4 Final Reveal with outfit photos

Fancy following along with me? Let’s go!

Inspiration

Last year I made my first two outerwear pieces ever in preparation for some Fall travel: a boyfriend style wool Bamboo coat for Amsterdam and an all-weather Kelly Anorak for Iceland.

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My inspiration for the wool coast was in a rich dark rust, but I sadly could not find anything like it in my price range.

 image c/o New Darlings

image c/o New Darlings

For that project I settled on a light camel on clearance from fabric.com and while it worked out well, that inspo pic haunted me.

Later that winter the obsession to find the perfect colored wool intensified when I saw this beauty on Pinterest in a very dark toasted caramel. I just love this look!

 photo c/o Fashion Jackson

photo c/o Fashion Jackson

Fabric

I’ve been periodically scanning online fabric sites ever since hoping to find an off-season steal but found nothing too tempting. Last month, completely fed up with summer I scoured fabric.com and without much expectation ordered a few samples. The winner for me was a medium weight Riley Blake Melton Wool (90% Wool, 10% Nylon blend) in the color brown. The color in person is much lighter and a lot closer to the inspo pic. I thought the price was pretty good at around $25/yard and a 20% off sale was going, so I ordered 3.5 yards

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Pattern

It felt so good to finally have my fabric, but the question of what pattern to use was unresolved. I had the Grainline Yates printed by Patternsy and ready to go, but the posiblity of a more tailored silhouette kept nagging at me. The boxy oversized look is everywhere and I do love it, but it isn’t really what I wanted for this coat. I did a lot of hunting and I finally settled on Butterick 6385, specifically the funnel neck version. It’s a completely different collar design & it doesn’t have all of the elements I wanted, but I think that in the end the fit and silhouette are most important. As a bonus, the lovely Fiona has a very comprehensive blog post on her B6385 and if I look half as cute as she does in her, I’ll consider this a success! I’m also scheming moving those welt pockets up along the princess seam and adding a jetted pocket with flap. Let’s see how brave I’m feeling…

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Supplies

The wool is slightly lighter weight than I wanted, so I picked up some brown 100% cotton flannel from JoAnn as an underlining. Also from JoAnn is the ambiance bembeg lining I chose, in the color medieval blue. In my opinion this is the best & only lining to use. Here’s a shot of my fabrics together. The colors are extremely tricky to capture on camera, but here’s the best I could do with a little editing. Also pictured are the first shoulder pads I’ve ever purchased in my life. I wonder if wearing them will make me feel as great as the model seems to…

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Still to decide on are buttons and interfacing. With regards to the interfacing I think I’ll have to test and see what works best. The buttons may end up being covered, or I might go with one of these two I saw the other day.

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Next up I’ll be prewashing my flannel and lining as well as “steaming” my wool in the dryer. While that’s happening I’ll have a look at the finished measurements of the pattern to decide what size to make and whether I need to make a quick muslin.

Feel free to let me know what you think and if you’ve got any tricks under your me-made sleeves. And stay tuned for part two!

xo April