The biggest obstacle came about before I even started sewing. I started off with two precious yards of 12 oz Cone Mills denim in Indigo from Blackbird but I had a lighter medium blue jacket in mind. I did some swatch testing in a bleach bath, but not enough as I would soon find out. To say the bleaching process did not go as planned is an understatement. Once wet, that cut of very heavy denim became extremely heavy and it was really hard to stir and agitate it adequately. I also did not account for continued lightening when I washed the bleach out. What I pulled out of the dryer was not only a much lighter blue that I wanted, but looked to me like a blotchy acid washed mess. Devastated, I folded it up, put it away and sulked in defeat. The next day I went online and found to my surprise that a lot of the jackets I saw were made with denim very similar to the hot mess I had at home. That night with my forces revived and inspiration photos at hand, I laid out the denim and strategically cut out my pattern pieces- avoiding the worst areas. The construction part of the jacket was surprisingly simple, with the most challenging parts a result of the very heavy denim I was using along with jeans topstitching thread. More on that later.
Overcoming my initial failure, I now had a really beautiful jacket to show for all my hard work. I had (mostly) embraced the color and imperfect bleach job and I had a lot of positive feedback from the community. My jacket fit well and was made with quality materials. It just looked too...new. The thick fabric was still stiff and all the pressing had left it very crisp. The bleached and distressed denim was begging to be rumpled and softened with wear. To expedite that process, I tossed it in with my next load of laundry. From the dryer I pulled out a much softer crumplier jacket that looked pretty great from the outside. On closer inspection, I found that many of the flat felled seams whose topstitching I had agonized so carefully over, were not secured after all. While the topstitching was in tact, it had not caught all of those 1/4” allowances tucked under. I felt a wave of failure and disappointment come over me all over again. I was so upset that I couldn’t bear to deal with it. I stashed it in the closest, where my failure could stay hidden away. This dirty little secret was safe, but each time I opened my closet I was reminded. More than a week later, I pulled it out and forced myself to have a closer look. I debated attempting the affected seams again but didn’t have it in me. Anyway I was sure that those frayed edges would be way to tricky to work with. For now, most of the frayed edges have been tucked back into place and secured with ***gasp*** fabric glue. I know. There’s a twinge of physical pain in my chest even typing that out. I have no idea how long this fix will last, especially after washing. But I honestly don’t think it will compromise the integrity of the jacket, at least not for a long time. Hopefully by the time it’s cool enough around here to wear it, I will have gotten over most of my trauma.
Now for the review!
Pattern and Fabric: mentioned above. This is a pdf only pattern, and I had the luxury of getting the copyshop version printed by Patternsy. This company is run by a very sweet couple that clearly loves what they do and gives great service. I especially love the sturdy tissue they print on and the black ink for printing. Seriously, who can see the pale stuff a lot of companies print with? My jeans buttons are the antique brass ones from Threadbare Fabrics and they are top notch. I used the classic yellow jeans topstitching thread from Gutermann.
Size: I made the size 6 based on my bust measurement. I’m actually 35 1/2 so technically I sized down. I ignored the waist measurements which would have put me between an 8 and a 10.
Fit: I really love the fit, it’s exactly what I want in a classic denim jacket. I think the armscye is drafted especially well. It sits very close you your armpit, allowing for great range of motion.
Changes: I made only one change to the pattern, which was shortening at the waist line by one inch. I am very short wasted, and I think this adjustment makes the jacket look on my frame the way it was designed. It does not come across as particularly cropped.
Verdict: I would hate for my personal drama to dissuade you from trying this pattern, because it truly is fantastic. Alina has included all of the classic details and the cut and proportions are perfect. Honestly, it looks so legit, no one would ever tell it apart from a classic rtw jacket. The instructions are excellent and there’s even a sewalong to hold your hand through the process. As noted before, the construction of the jacket itself is not hard at all. Really, it isn’t as long as you take note and learn from my mistakes!
To consider if you’re planning this project: 12 oz denim might be too thick. If I were to make this over again in the same fabric I would mock flat fell all of the seams. My theory is that the thickness of the denim threw off my folds by a millimeter or two, so that my topstitching juuust missed its mark. I would also use a thinner fabric to make the pocket lining. There’s just no need for all that bulk. Another a challenge with super thick denim is the topstitching. I found that even when my stitches were nice and even on top, the bobbin thread was a mess. I had to really bump up my tension to correct this. Lastly, the buttonhole conundrum. I was hell-bent on making my buttonholes with topstitching thread. My first two buttonholes on the breast pockets (keyhole style to boot!) turned out fantastic, and that gave me a false sense of confidence. What I didn’t realize at the time was that the ones on the button band, especially the lower few, would be going through an extra layer of fabric. I had an extremely difficult time here, and at least one of them had to be done 7 different times. My hands were cramped and fingers were pricked and raw when I decided I had done the best that I could. To add insult to injury, the thickness of the fabric actually makes them nearly too small to actually fit buttons through. I doubt I’ll ever want to wear this jacket closed up, but it will be a struggle if I do. Moral of the story? Use the 10oz denim or twill recommend and you can avoid a lot of unnecessary pain.
All stressful details behind us, here are some gratuitous photos I took against my neighbors’ wall. Feel free to comment with your perfectionist horror stories!